by Johnny Chen
A DIY oil change is one of the best first automotive skills you can pick up, and one of the most practical. Many quick-lube shops charge between $70 and $100 for a job you can do in your own driveway with around $30 worth of supplies and tools you’ll use for years. Changing your own oil saves money, builds confidence, and keeps you from handing over cash for something this straightforward.
The most common fear is “I don’t know what I’m doing and I’ll mess something up.” That’s fair, but the process is simple once you see it broken down clearly. This guide covers the exact tools and supplies you need, how to pick the right oil, how to safely lift your car, a step-by-step drain-and-refill process, mistakes to avoid, and how to dispose of used oil legally. Before you buy anything, check the oil change tools checklist we put together right here on On the Rise. It’ll save you a wasted trip to the auto parts store.
Set your expectations upfront: first-timers typically finish in 60 to 90 minutes, factoring in setup and double-checking your work. After two or three changes, most people knock it out in 30 to 45 minutes. The first one is the learning curve investment. Every change after that feels like routine maintenance, because it is.
DIY oil change tools and checklist
You don’t need a full mechanic’s shop for this job. You need six items, most of which are useful well beyond oil changes. This section cuts through the overwhelm of standing in the auto parts aisle not knowing what to grab.
The core kit looks like this:
- Ratchet with the correct socket for your drain plug. Common sizes are 14mm (Toyota Camry), 17mm (Honda Civic), and 15mm (Ford F-150, Chevy Silverado). Check your owner’s manual or a quick search by year, make, and model to confirm yours.
- Oil filter wrench. A universal strap wrench handles most jobs. Cap-style wrenches fit specific filter sizes and are worth buying if you’re sticking with one vehicle.
- Floor jack with jack stands, or a set of drive-on ramps.
- Drain pan sized for your vehicle’s oil capacity. Compact cars typically hold 3.5 to 5 quarts; most passenger cars hold 5 to 6 quarts; trucks and SUVs often need 8 or more. Match the pan to your specific vehicle or buy a larger universal pan to cover you either way.
- Funnel.
- Nitrile gloves and shop rags.
A drain pan typically runs $12 to $18 and will outlast dozens of oil changes. We’ve done hands-on reviews of affordable drain pans and funnel kits right here on On the Rise. You don’t need to spend more than that. Harbor Freight, AutoZone, and Amazon all carry these basics. The right filter wrench depends on your specific car, so if you’re buying one, a universal strap wrench is the safest starting point.
How to pick the right oil and filter for your car
This is where most beginners overthink it. Your owner’s manual has already done the work. You just need to read two lines from it.
The manual lists the exact SAE viscosity grade, something like 0W-20 or 5W-30, and the engine’s oil capacity in quarts. The first number (with the W for winter) describes how the oil flows during a cold start. The second number describes viscosity at normal operating temperature. If your manual says 0W-20, use 0W-20. Don’t substitute unless the manual explicitly lists multiple acceptable grades. Write the oil type and capacity on a piece of tape inside your glove box so you never have to look it up again.
On the synthetic vs. conventional question: many modern vehicles specify full synthetic, so check your owner’s manual rather than assuming. Older vehicles may allow conventional or a synthetic blend. Synthetic lasts longer, typically 7,500 to 10,000 miles compared to 3,000 to 5,000 for conventional, though your actual interval depends on your vehicle and driving conditions, and it performs better in temperature extremes. The decision is simple: follow the manufacturer’s specification. Don’t try to save $5 by running conventional in an engine designed for synthetic. The long-term cost of that tradeoff is never worth it.
For the oil filter, match it to your vehicle’s year, make, and model. Brands like Fram, Mobil 1, and Wix are widely available at AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts. Use the filter lookup tool at the counter or on the retailer’s website to confirm compatibility before you leave the store.
Safe lifting: how to get under your car without risking your life
Most beginner guides rush through this section. Getting it wrong is the one part of a DIY oil change that can actually hurt you, so take two extra minutes here and do it right.
Ramps are simpler and faster for most people. Drive up, chock the rear wheels, and you’re set. They work well for cars and trucks with enough ground clearance. A floor jack paired with jack stands gives you more flexibility and is required if your vehicle sits too low for ramps. The hard rule is this: never rely on a hydraulic jack alone. A jack is for lifting; stands are for supporting. Set the stands before you go under the car, every single time.
Run through this checklist before you slide underneath:
- Park on a flat, hard surface, concrete or asphalt. Never gravel or dirt.
- Set the parking brake firmly.
- Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
- Consult the owner’s manual for the exact jacking points. Using the wrong spot can crack the frame or oil pan.
- Give the car a firm shake test after setting the stands.
- Let the engine cool for at least 15 to 20 minutes before starting. Hot oil burns, and so does the exhaust pipe.
DIY oil change: step-by-step process
Here’s the full procedure from start to finish. Each step builds on the last, so follow them in order and you won’t miss anything critical, including the seal checks that prevent leaks after the job.
Draining the old oil
- Remove the oil fill cap on top of the engine. This helps the old oil drain freely.
- Position the drain pan directly under the oil pan drain plug.
- Loosen the drain plug counterclockwise with your socket and ratchet, then remove it the rest of the way by hand. Keep your hand under it as it comes loose so it doesn’t drop into the pan.
- Let the oil drain completely. Drain time varies by engine size and temperature, plan for several minutes to more than 10 minutes. Don’t rush it.
- Wipe the drain plug clean and inspect the crush washer. Replace the washer if it looks flattened or deformed. The crush washer is a $1 to $2 part, and skipping the replacement is a common source of leaks after the job.
Removing and replacing the oil filter
Reposition the drain pan under the filter before you touch it, filters hold 4 to 8 ounces of oil and will spill. Loosen the filter counterclockwise with your filter wrench, then finish removing it by hand. Before threading on the new one, confirm that the old rubber O-ring came off with the filter and is not stuck to the engine block. A double-gasket situation is one of the most common causes of post-change leaks, and it happens more often than you’d think.
Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil before threading it on. Hand-tighten until the gasket contacts the base, then add a half to three-quarter turn. Using a wrench after that point risks overtightening and damaging the gasket. Follow the filter manufacturer’s instructions if they differ from this guideline.
Reinstalling the drain plug and refilling
Thread the drain plug back in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then snug it with your wrench. If you have a torque wrench and your manual lists a spec, use it. Without one, tighten it firmly but don’t crank on it. Overtightening strips the oil pan threads, what starts as a cheap crush washer replacement can turn into an expensive thread repair, so use the factory torque spec whenever possible.
Lower the car, remove the ramps or stands, and move to the refill. Use a funnel and add most of the manufacturer-specified amount, then check the dipstick and top off to the full mark rather than pouring everything in at once. Start the engine and let it idle for 60 seconds. Watch for the oil pressure warning light to go off, then check under the car for any drips at the drain plug and filter. Shut the engine off, wait 2 to 3 minutes, recheck the dipstick, and top off as needed. If your car has an oil life monitor, reset it now, otherwise it won’t know the oil was changed and will give you inaccurate service alerts.
Mistakes that cost DIYers time and money
Most problems that happen after a DIY oil change trace back to one of five mistakes. Knowing them ahead of time means you won’t make them.
- Forgetting to check that the old filter gasket came off. A double gasket prevents a proper seal. Your engine will lose oil pressure fast, and the damage can be severe.
- Overtightening the drain plug. This strips the oil pan threads. What should be a cheap fix becomes an expensive repair.
- Adding too much oil. Overfilling causes foaming and pressure buildup, which damages seals. Measure carefully and use the dipstick, not just the quart count.
- Not resetting the oil life monitor. Your car won’t know the oil was changed and will generate inaccurate service reminders.
- Using the wrong viscosity. Even one grade off from the manufacturer’s spec matters, especially in extreme temperatures. Follow the manual.
The single biggest pattern across all these mistakes is rushing through the seal-related steps. The filter gasket, crush washer, and correct tightening are responsible for almost every leak that shows up after an oil change. Slow down on those three things and you’ll have no problems.
Disposing of used oil the right way
This is the section most guides skip entirely. Disposing of used oil improperly is illegal in most states, and the environmental impact is real: a single quart of motor oil can contaminate up to 250,000 gallons of groundwater. The good news is that doing it correctly takes almost no extra effort.
Pour the used oil back into the empty oil bottles or another clean container with a tight-sealing lid. Label it “Used Motor Oil.” Keep it completely separate from other fluids like antifreeze, brake fluid, or gasoline. Contaminated oil is often rejected at collection sites, so don’t mix anything. For the used filter, let it drain into the pan overnight, then place it in a sealed plastic bag before transporting it.
Auto parts retailers including AutoZone, O’Reilly, and Advance Auto Parts accept used motor oil at most locations, usually up to 5 gallons per visit, and the service is free. Many quick-lube shops accept it as well. Use the Earth911 recycling locator at earth911.com to find the closest certified drop-off near your ZIP code. Your county’s household hazardous waste facility is another reliable option, particularly for oil filters. Call ahead to confirm the store or facility accepts both oil and filters before making the trip.
Go do the job
A home oil change is one of the most approachable automotive tasks you can learn. It saves real money, takes well under an hour once you’ve done it once, and gives you direct knowledge of what’s going on under your hood. If you followed the steps in this guide, you did it correctly. Check for leaks, verify the oil level, and you’re done with your DIY oil change.
Bookmark On the Rise for more honest, no-fluff mechanic guides covering everything from brake pad replacement to winterizing your car before cold weather hits. Head over to our tools section for the full printable step-by-step checklist you can take into the garage with you. The reviews are unsponsored and the instructions are tight so you can find what you need and get back to work.
Your next oil change will take half as long. That’s how this works.